The last ferry of the season
The island empties, the café closes, and one boat a day becomes one boat a week. A love letter to the shoulder season.
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A field guide to getting lost
Turn the phone face-down. Take the smaller road. A modest argument for not knowing exactly where you are.
Notes from a night train
On the particular romance — and the particular discomfort — of sleeping your way across a country.
The road to Cabo Ortegal
Two days, one wrong turn, and the greenest coast in Galicia — a slow drive to the cliffs where Spain runs out.