Blue hour in the harbour
Twenty minutes of impossible colour, a borrowed tripod, and every fisherman in the port wondering what the tourist is doing.
On the particular romance — and the particular discomfort — of sleeping your way across a country.
Twenty minutes of impossible colour, a borrowed tripod, and every fisherman in the port wondering what the tourist is doing.
Two days, one wrong turn, and the greenest coast in Galicia — a slow drive to the cliffs where Spain runs out.
Where the buses go, how often, and who is on them — the fastest way to understand somewhere you have just arrived.
Eleven years of over-packing, distilled into a short list and one hard-won rule.
Twelve hours, one horizon, no shade. A set from the flattest place either of us has stood.
Everyone flies over the interesting part. On the hours between one country and the next, and why they are the trip.
The phone became a camera, then a paperweight. Notes on the particular clarity of being unreachable.
The island empties, the café closes, and one boat a day becomes one boat a week. A love letter to the shoulder season.
One roll of film, one grey morning, one stretch of shoreline that refused to be boring.
Turn the phone face-down. Take the smaller road. A modest argument for not knowing exactly where you are.
A short piece about the exact place a road stops being a road, and why I keep driving to find it.
Long-form travel writing and photo essays, sent when the light is worth it.